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3D Printing Troubleshooting Guide & Wizard

Fix stringing, warping, layer shifting, under-extrusion, first layer issues, brittle prints and more – fast.

Updated: February 2025 • Focused on FDM printers (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU)

Start Troubleshooting Wizard Browse All 41 Issues

💡 How to use this page: Use the Interactive Wizard for symptom-based diagnosis, or browse all 41 common issues for instant symptom→fix reference.

Interactive Troubleshooting Wizard

Select your symptoms for a diagnosis with confidence scores and prioritized fixes.

Select a category first

💡 Select multiple symptoms for better diagnosis. Confidence scores show how likely each fix will work.
Select a category and at least one symptom, then click Show fixes.
41

Quick Reference: All 41 Common Issues

Symptom → fix at a glance. Click any card to jump to the wizard above.

1. Ringing

Wavy echoes after corners

Lower speed/accel, tighten belts, reduce jerk

2. Ghosting

Shadow lines after sharp edges

Same as ringing; check pulleys on motor shafts

3. Z-Wobble

Vertical wood-grain waves

Check lead screw alignment, coupler

4. Layer Shifts

Layers suddenly misaligned

Tighten belts, lower acceleration

5. Elephant's Foot

Bottom flares outward

Reduce squish, lower bed temp, add compensation

6. Warping

Corners peel up

Increase bed temp, enclosure, brim, clean bed

7. Stringing

Hair-like strings between parts

Increase retraction, lower temp, enable combing, dry filament

8. Blobs & Zits

Random bumps on surface

Tune retraction/coasting, dry filament, enable wipe

9. Under-Extrusion

Gaps, weak layers

Check clogs, increase flow, calibrate e-steps

10. Over-Extrusion

Bulging layers, messy details

Calibrate flow, verify diameter, tune e-steps

11. Nozzle Clogs

Nothing comes out mid-print

Cold pull, replace nozzle, dry filament

12. First Layer Won't Stick

Print detaches instantly

Re-level bed, clean with IPA, adjust Z-offset

13. First Layer Too Squished

Rough elephant skin texture

Raise Z-offset slightly

14. Layer Separation

Layers splitting apart

Increase nozzle temp, reduce cooling, increase flow

15. Inconsistent Extrusion

Surface looks uneven

Check extruder gear tension, spool rotation

16. Skipping Extruder

Clicking sound, no extrusion

Lower speed, raise temp, clear clog, check tension

17. Heat Creep

Clogs during long prints

Ensure hotend fan works, improve airflow, lower retraction

18. Overhang Sagging

Droopy edges

Increase cooling, lower layer height, slow down

19. Bridging Failure

Bridge strands sag heavily

Lower temp, increase cooling, slow bridge speed

20. Infill Showing Through

Visible pattern on outside

Add more walls, increase thickness, reduce overlap

21. Pillowing

Top looks saggy or thin

Increase top layers, increase infill, improve cooling

22. Seam Lines

Vertical line down print

Align seam to back, use random seam, tune retraction

23. Thermal Runaway

Printer stops with warning

Check thermistor wiring, tighten heater screw

24. Bed Not Heating Evenly

Prints warp on one side

Check bed wiring, insulate underside, PID tune

25. Noisy Stepper Motors

Loud grinding/whining

Enable stealth drivers, tighten frame, check V-wheels

26. Filament Grinding

Chewed filament dust near extruder

Reduce retraction, clear clogs, adjust tension

27. Dimensional Inaccuracy

Parts don't fit

Calibrate e-steps, adjust horizontal expansion

28. Printer Stops Mid-Print

Random freeze

Check SD card, use quality card, update firmware

29. Vibrating Table

Surface artifacts at certain heights

Solid surface, anti-vibration feet

30. Wet Filament

Popping sounds, rough surface, weak prints

Dry it. Store properly. Yes, even if "new."

31. Outer Wall Ripples

Inside walls fine; outside has vertical ripple waves on cylinders

Drop outer wall speed 30–40 mm/s, lower accel 500–800, tighten belts, print outer wall last, 3–4 walls, reduce infill overlap

32. Inconsistent Layer Lines

Random thick/thin layers

Check extruder tension, calibrate e-steps, ensure spool isn't snagging

33. Wavy Vertical Walls

Wobble pattern on tall prints

Adjust V-wheel eccentric nuts; wheels should roll smoothly

34. Corners Curling Up

Sharp corners lift mid-print

Reduce part cooling, increase wall thickness

35. Random Surface Roughness

Sandpaper texture in random zones

Check partial clog, dry filament, increase temp slightly

36. Gaps at Start of Walls

Tiny missing chunk where wall begins

Increase retraction prime, tune pressure advance / linear advance

37. Z Banding at Specific Heights

Only certain layers look weird

Check lead screw for debris, clean and lightly lubricate Z rods

38. Prints Leaning Slightly

Tall prints tilt (Tower of Pisa)

Check frame squareness, tighten vertical uprights, verify Z alignment

39. Random Under-Extrusion Mid-Print

Starts fine, then goes weak

Check hotend fan (heat creep), filament path for friction

40. Surface Glossy Then Matte Then Glossy

Shiny and dull bands alternating

Slow down – speed variation affects cooling rate

41. Tiny Layer Shifts (Not Full)

Slight offset but not catastrophic

Belt tension, pulley grub screws, motor shaft alignment

📊 Diagnostic Order: Troubleshoot in This Sequence

Senior users diagnose in order. Following this sequence saves time and prevents "fixing" the wrong thing.

1️⃣ First layer / bed adhesion

Start here. If the foundation fails, nothing else matters. Check bed level, Z-offset, surface cleanliness, and first layer settings. → See detailed fixes

2️⃣ Extrusion consistency (clogs, wet filament, tension)

Check for partial clogs, wet filament (especially PETG/TPU), and extruder gear tension. These cause gaps, under-extrusion, and stringing. → See detailed fixes → Wet filament guide

3️⃣ Motion issues (belts, collisions)

Check belt tension, pulley grub screws, and ensure the print head isn't colliding with curled parts or supports. → See detailed fixes

4️⃣ Temperature / cooling / environment

Verify nozzle and bed temperatures are correct for your material. Check cooling fan settings and ambient conditions (drafts, enclosure). → See material defaults

5️⃣ Slicer fine-tuning

Last step: retraction, speed, acceleration, flow, and advanced settings. Only adjust these after mechanical issues are resolved. → Calibration toolkit

Guide sections

  1. First layer & bed adhesion problems
  2. Stringing & oozing
  3. Warping & corner lifting
  4. Under-extrusion & gaps
  5. Over-extrusion & blobs
  6. Layer shifting & skipped steps
  7. Brittle prints & poor layer adhesion
  8. Dimensional accuracy & parts not fitting
  9. Surface artifacts (zits, ringing, ghosting)
  10. Material-specific tips (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU)
  11. Wet filament: The silent print killer
  12. Calibration toolkit

1. First layer & bed adhesion problems

The first layer is the foundation of every print. If it doesn't stick properly, everything else will fail.

Common symptoms

  • First layer not sticking or peeling up
  • Elephant's foot (squished, flared first layer)
  • Uneven first layer (too thin on one side)

Key causes

  • Bed not level or incorrect Z-offset
  • Dirty build surface (oils, dust, residue)
  • Incorrect first-layer speed or temperature
  • Drafts or very low ambient temperature

Step-by-Step Fix Guide

  1. 1

    Level Your Bed

    Use the paper test: place a sheet of paper between nozzle and bed. Adjust bed screws until you feel slight resistance when moving the paper.

    💡 Tip: Level at all four corners, then check the center. Repeat 2-3 times for accuracy.

  2. 2

    Set Z-Offset

    Print a single-layer test square. Adjust Z-offset until the first layer is slightly squished (about 0.1-0.2mm) with no gaps between lines.

    💡 Tip: First layer should be smooth and uniform. If you see gaps, nozzle is too high. If lines are too thin or transparent, nozzle is too low.

  3. 3

    Clean Build Surface

    Wipe bed with isopropyl alcohol (90%+) using lint-free cloth. For glass beds, use soap and water, then IPA. For PEI sheets, follow manufacturer instructions.

    💡 Tip: Avoid touching the print surface with bare hands - oils reduce adhesion.

  4. 4

    Adjust First Layer Settings

    In your slicer: set first layer speed to 15-25 mm/s, increase first layer temperature by 5-10°C, and set first layer height to 0.2-0.3mm.

    💡 Tip: Slower first layer gives more time for adhesion. Higher temperature improves flow and bonding.

  5. 5

    Add Adhesion Aids

    For small parts or warp-prone materials (ABS, PETG), add a brim (3-5mm) or raft. Brims are easier to remove than rafts.

    💡 Tip: Brims work best for most cases. Rafts are only needed for very difficult prints or warped beds.

Quick Fix Checklist:
  • ✅ Bed level and Z-offset correct
  • ✅ Build surface clean (IPA or soap + water)
  • ✅ First layer speed: 15-25 mm/s
  • ✅ First layer temp: +5-10°C above normal
  • ✅ Brim added for small/warp-prone prints
  • ✅ Enclosure closed (for ABS/ASA)
  • ✅ No drafts near printer

✅ How to Confirm It's Fixed

Print a simple single-layer test square (20mm x 20mm, 0.2mm height). A good first layer should:

  • Have no gaps between adjacent lines
  • Be slightly squished (lines should be flat, not round)
  • Stick firmly to the bed (can't peel with light finger pressure)
  • Have uniform thickness across the entire square

Time to test: ~5 minutes (including prep and print)

⚠️ If It Didn't Work, Try This Next:

  1. Check your build surface: Some materials need specific surfaces (glass + glue, PEI sheet, etc.). Try a different surface type or add adhesion aids (glue stick, hairspray).
  2. Verify bed temperature: Use a thermometer or IR gun to confirm actual bed temp matches your slicer setting. Some beds read incorrectly.
  3. Check for drafts: Even small air currents can cool the first layer. Close doors/windows or add a temporary enclosure.
  4. Consider the material: ABS/ASA almost always need an enclosure. PETG may need different bed temps. Check material-specific section below.
  5. Last resort - bed replacement: If the bed is warped significantly, consider a glass bed, auto-leveling mesh, or replacing the bed surface.

Still stuck? Check the wet filament section (especially for PETG) or review material-specific tips.

📊 Track the cost impact: Want to understand how bed failures affect your profitability? Use the failure percentage field in the 3D Print Calculator to see how reprints impact your cost per print. This helps you prioritize which fixes are most cost-effective to implement.

2. Stringing & oozing

Stringing happens when filament oozes out of the nozzle while it travels between parts of the print.

Common causes

  • Retraction distance too low
  • Retraction speed too slow
  • Nozzle temperature too high
  • Moist filament (especially PETG, TPU)

Fixes to try

  • Increase retraction distance gradually (e.g. 0.5 mm steps) within safe limits for your extruder.
  • Increase retraction speed (e.g. 25–45 mm/s) if your extruder can handle it.
  • Reduce nozzle temperature in 5–10°C steps until stringing improves without losing layer adhesion.
  • Dry your filament (especially PETG and TPU) in a dryer or low oven per manufacturer guidance. → See wet filament guide
  • Enable "Combing" and "Avoid crossing perimeters" features in your slicer if available.

✅ How to Confirm It's Fixed

Print a retraction test tower (two tall cylinders close together). Good results show:

  • No strings or webs between the two towers
  • Clean separation with minimal wisps
  • Sharp, clean points where the nozzle moves between towers

Time to test: ~15-30 minutes (depending on tower height). Use a retraction tower generator like Teaching Tech's or your slicer's built-in calibration.

⚠️ If It Didn't Work, Try This Next:

  1. DRY YOUR FILAMENT: This is the #1 cause of stringing with PETG and TPU. Use a filament dryer or low oven (50-60°C for 4-6 hours). Even "new" filament can be wet.
  2. Lower temperature more aggressively: Try 10-15°C lower than your current setting, but watch for layer adhesion issues.
  3. Increase travel speed: Faster travel (150-300 mm/s) reduces time for oozing between moves.
  4. Check for nozzle wear: Worn nozzles can cause inconsistent flow and more oozing. Replace if needed.
  5. Material-specific approach: PETG strings more than PLA. Consider using a different material for parts where stringing is critical, or accept minor stringing and remove with heat gun/flame.

Still having issues? Check the wet filament section - it's likely the root cause for persistent stringing.

3. Warping & corner lifting

Warping happens when the bottom of the print cools and shrinks faster than the top, pulling corners off the bed.

Materials most affected

  • ABS / ASA – very prone to warping
  • PETG – moderate warping on large flat parts
  • PLA – usually minimal but can warp on big parts

Fixes to try

  • Use an enclosure for ABS/ASA and keep doors closed.
  • Increase bed temperature slightly within safe range.
  • Add a large brim or mouse-ears on sharp corners.
  • Use adhesives suited to your bed (glue stick, PEI, textured plates).
  • Avoid blasting the first layers with part cooling fan, especially for ABS/ASA.

4. Under-extrusion & gaps in layers

Under-extrusion shows as gaps, weak infill, missing lines, or layers that look starved of plastic.

Likely causes

  • Partial nozzle clog or debris
  • Filament snagging or spool not feeding smoothly
  • Extruder gear slipping or grinding filament
  • Incorrect filament diameter or flow settings

Fixes to try

  • Cold-pull or replace the nozzle to clear clogs.
  • Ensure filament can unspool freely – fix tangles or tight spool holders.
  • Clean extruder gear and check tension; avoid over-tightening on soft materials.
  • Check slicer filament diameter (usually 1.75 mm) and calibrate flow / E-steps if needed. → Flow calibration guide
  • Lower print speed if your hotend cannot melt filament fast enough at high speeds.

5. Over-extrusion, blobs & elephants foot

Over-extrusion leads to blobs, zits, ridges, and dimensions that are too big.

Fixes to try

  • Reduce flow/extrusion multiplier slightly (e.g. from 100% to 95%).
  • Ensure filament diameter is set correctly and matches your filament.
  • Dial in retraction and coasting / wipe if your slicer supports it.
  • For elephant's foot, reduce bed temperature and/or enable "first layer horizontal expansion" compensation.

6. Layer shifting & skipped steps

Layer shifting appears as a sudden offset in the model where everything above is misaligned.

Common causes

  • Loose belts or pulleys
  • Print head hitting curled-up parts or supports
  • Too high acceleration/jerk values
  • Printer physically moved or bumped mid-print

Fixes to try

  • Tension belts according to manufacturer guidelines.
  • Check pulleys/grub screws on stepper shafts are tight.
  • Reduce acceleration, jerk, and high speeds especially on tall or wobbly prints.
  • Ensure the printer is on a stable surface and not being knocked.
  • Improve adhesion to prevent parts curling up into the nozzle path.

7. Brittle prints & poor layer adhesion

Brittle parts snap easily and show weak bonds between layers.

Fixes to try

  • Increase nozzle temperature in small steps to improve layer fusion.
  • Reduce cooling fan speed, especially on higher-temp materials like PETG and ABS.
  • Increase wall/perimeter count and infill overlap in your slicer.
  • Print with thicker layers (e.g. 0.2–0.28 mm) for stronger adhesion on some printers.
  • Store filament dry – old or wet PLA can become very brittle. → See wet filament prevention

8. Dimensional accuracy & parts not fitting

Critical for enclosures, mechanical parts, and anything that must fit together.

Things to check

  • Print calibration cubes to confirm X, Y, and Z dimensions are accurate. → See calibration toolkit
  • Check belt tension and mechanical slop in the motion system.
  • Adjust slicer horizontal expansion or hole compensation settings.
  • Allow appropriate clearance for mating parts in your CAD (e.g. 0.2–0.4 mm for PLA).

9. Surface artifacts: zits, ringing, ghosting

Surface issues can make an otherwise functional print look low quality.

Ringing / ghosting

  • Reduce print speed, especially on walls.
  • Lower acceleration/jerk in firmware or slicer.
  • Ensure printer frame is rigid and on a solid surface.

Blobs / zits

  • Tune retraction and coasting/wipe settings.
  • Use "random seam" or hide seams in corners when possible.
  • Ensure consistent extrusion and stable filament feed.

10. Material-specific tips (PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU)

Different materials behave very differently. Your troubleshooting approach should match the filament. Use these tables as quick reference starting points for your slicer profiles.

📋 Material-Specific Defaults (Quick Reference)

Material Nozzle Temp Bed Temp Fan Speed Retraction* Print Speed Notes
PLA / PLA+ 200-220°C 50-60°C 100% (50-70% for functional) 3-5mm (DD)
5-7mm (Bowden)		 50-80 mm/s Easiest material. Brittle if too cold or old. Strings at high temps.
PETG 230-250°C 70-80°C 30-50% (0% first layers) 4-6mm (DD)
6-8mm (Bowden)		 40-60 mm/s DRY FIRST! Strings more than PLA. Lower fan for strength.
ABS / ASA 240-260°C 90-110°C 0-20% (0% first layers) 2-4mm (DD)
4-6mm (Bowden)		 40-60 mm/s ENCLOSURE REQUIRED! Warps without it. Low fan, stable temp.
TPU / Flexible 220-240°C 40-60°C 0-30% 0-2mm (DD)
2-4mm (Bowden, gentle)		 20-40 mm/s DRY FIRST! Direct drive preferred. Very low retraction to avoid jams.

* DD = Direct Drive, Bowden = Bowden tube extruder. Retraction distances are starting points - tune for your setup. Speed ranges assume 0.4mm nozzle.

PLA / PLA+

  • Easy to print but can be brittle and heat-sensitive.
  • Great for beginners and decorative parts.
  • More prone to stringing at high temperatures – tune temp and retraction.

See: 3D Printing Filament Guide 2025 for detailed PLA settings and costs.

PETG

  • Strong, slightly flexible, good for functional parts.
  • Strings easily – focus on drying and retraction.
  • Lower cooling than PLA, slightly higher temps.

ABS / ASA

  • Needs enclosure and stable temperature to avoid warping and cracking.
  • Lower fan, higher bed temp, slow and stable environment.
  • Stronger and more heat-resistant than PLA.

TPU / flexible

  • Print slowly with limited retraction to avoid jams.
  • Ensure filament path is well constrained (direct drive helps).
  • Dry filament to prevent blobs and inconsistent extrusion.

11. Wet Filament: The Silent Print Killer

Wet filament is one of the biggest real-world causes of print failures, especially with hygroscopic materials like PETG, TPU, and sometimes PLA. Moisture absorbed from the air causes stringing, bubbling, weak layer adhesion, and brittle prints.

🚨 Signs Your Filament is Wet:

  • Excessive stringing even with good retraction settings
  • Popping, cracking, or sizzling sounds during printing
  • Bubbles or pockmarks in the print surface
  • Brittle prints that snap easily along layer lines
  • Inconsistent extrusion (random gaps or under-extrusion)
  • White steam or vapor coming from the nozzle

Materials Most Affected

  • PETG: Extremely hygroscopic. Can absorb moisture in hours in humid environments.
  • TPU/Flexible: Very moisture-sensitive. Wet TPU often jams and extrudes inconsistently.
  • Nylon: Extremely hygroscopic. Must be stored with desiccant.
  • PLA: Less sensitive but can still absorb moisture over time, especially in humid climates.
  • ABS: Generally less affected, but high humidity can still cause issues.

How to Dry Filament

  1. Filament Dryer: Best method. Use a dedicated filament dryer at 50-60°C for 4-6 hours (follow manufacturer specs).
  2. Food Dehydrator: Remove trays, set to 50-60°C for PETG, 40-50°C for PLA. 4-6 hours minimum.
  3. Oven (Low Temp): ONLY if your oven can maintain 50-60°C accurately. Preheat, place spool on middle rack, check with thermometer. Risk of melting if too hot!
  4. Printing While Drying: Some dryers allow printing directly from them - ideal for PETG in humid environments.

⚠️ Warning: Never exceed 70°C for PETG or you'll soften/deform the spool. PLA can handle slightly higher temps but check manufacturer specs.

Prevention: How to Store Filament

  • Sealed containers with desiccant: Use airtight boxes (IKEA Samla, storage totes) with silica gel desiccant packs. Keep humidity below 15% if possible.
  • Vacuum bags: For long-term storage, vacuum-seal spools with desiccant packs.
  • Dry boxes for active spools: If printing in a humid environment, use a dry box or filament dryer as the source during printing.
  • Check humidity: Use a hygrometer. Filament should be stored below 30% relative humidity (15-20% is ideal).
  • Don't leave spools out: Even a few days in a humid room can saturate PETG or TPU.

💡 Pro Tip: Test if Filament is Wet

Try printing a simple test. If you hear popping sounds or see bubbles, it's wet. Alternatively, try increasing retraction - if stringing persists even with high retraction, it's likely wet filament, not retraction settings.

🔧 Calibration Toolkit

These calibration tests help you dial in your printer systematically. Print them in order and adjust one setting at a time. Each test tells you what to look for and how to interpret results.

🌍 Temperature Tower

Finds the optimal nozzle temperature for your filament. Each section prints at a different temperature.

What to look for: The section with best layer adhesion, least stringing, and smoothest surface. Too hot = stringing, drooping bridges. Too cold = poor layer adhesion, brittle prints.

How to use: Search "temperature tower" on Thingiverse or use your slicer's calibration generator. Configure per-section temperatures in the slicer (e.g., 190°C to 230°C in 5°C steps).

📥 Teaching Tech Temperature Tower | All-in-One Calibration

📏 Retraction Tower

Determines optimal retraction distance and speed to eliminate stringing.

What to look for: The section with no strings or wisps between the towers. Too little retraction = stringing. Too much = potential clogs or grinding on Bowden setups.

How to use: Print a tower that varies retraction distance or speed per section. Start with your current settings and adjust based on which section looks best.

📥 All-in-One Calibration | Teaching Tech Retraction Test

💧 Flow Calibration Cube

Calibrates your flow rate/extrusion multiplier for accurate dimensions and consistent wall thickness.

What to look for: Measure wall thickness with calipers. Should match your line width (e.g., 0.4mm with 0.4mm nozzle). Thicker = reduce flow. Thinner = increase flow.

How to use: Print a single-wall cube (no infill, no top/bottom). Measure wall thickness in multiple places. Adjust flow = (target width / measured width) × current flow.

📥 Single Wall Flow Test | Teaching Tech Method

📐 First Layer Square

Quick test to verify bed level, Z-offset, and first layer settings.

What to look for: Uniform, slightly squished lines with no gaps. Lines should stick firmly. Too high = gaps, poor adhesion. Too low = transparent/too thin lines, scraping.

How to use: Print a single-layer square (20-30mm). Adjust Z-offset while printing until lines are perfect. Repeat at different bed positions to check leveling.

📥 Create in slicer: 20mm × 20mm × 0.2mm box, single layer, no infill, no top/bottom

📋 Recommended Calibration Order

  1. First Layer Square: Ensure bed adhesion is perfect before anything else.
  2. Temperature Tower: Find optimal temperature for your material (affects everything else).
  3. Retraction Tower: Eliminate stringing with correct retraction settings.
  4. Flow Calibration Cube: Fine-tune extrusion for accurate dimensions and consistent walls.
  5. Print a Benchy: Real-world test that combines all settings. Use as final validation.

💡 Pro Tip: Calibrate once per material, or when you change nozzles, hotends, or extruders. Save your calibrated profiles in your slicer!

📕 Additional Resources

Ready to turn good prints into profitable prints?

Once your printer is dialled in, use the calculators to price your work properly and track your earnings.

🧮 Open 3D Print Calculator 📈 Visit Business Hub

📋 Printable Troubleshooting Checklists

Use these checklists to systematically diagnose and fix common 3D printing problems. Print them out and keep them near your printer for quick reference.

Pre-Print Checklist

Printer Setup

  • Bed is level (paper test at all corners)
  • Z-offset is correctly set
  • Build surface is clean (IPA wiped)
  • Nozzle is clean and clear
  • Filament is loaded and feeding correctly

Slicer Settings

  • Correct material profile selected
  • Temperature matches material requirements
  • First layer speed is slow (15-25 mm/s)
  • Supports added if needed
  • Brim/raft added for small parts

First Layer Problem Checklist

  1. 1.
    Check bed level: Use paper test at all 4 corners + center. Adjust until slight resistance.
  2. 2.
    Adjust Z-offset: Print test square. If gaps between lines → lower nozzle. If too squished → raise nozzle.
  3. 3.
    Clean build surface: Wipe with IPA (90%+) or soap + water. Avoid touching with bare hands.
  4. 4.
    Check first layer settings: Speed 15-25 mm/s, temp +5-10°C above normal, height 0.2-0.3mm.
  5. 5.
    Add adhesion aid: Brim (3-5mm) for small parts or warp-prone materials (ABS, PETG).
  6. 6.
    Check environment: No drafts, stable temperature. For ABS/ASA, ensure enclosure is closed.

Stringing Problem Checklist

  1. 1.
    Increase retraction distance: Start with 0.5mm increments. Typical: 3-6mm for direct drive, 5-8mm for Bowden.
  2. 2.
    Increase retraction speed: Try 25-45 mm/s. Higher speeds reduce stringing but may cause grinding.
  3. 3.
    Reduce nozzle temperature: Lower in 5-10°C steps. Stop if layer adhesion suffers.
  4. 4.
    Dry filament: PETG and TPU are especially moisture-sensitive. Use filament dryer or low oven (50-60°C).
  5. 5.
    Enable combing: In slicer, enable "Combing" and "Avoid crossing perimeters" to reduce travel moves.
  6. 6.
    Check travel speed: Increase travel speed (150-300 mm/s) to reduce time between extrusions.

💡 Pro Tip: Print these checklists and keep them near your printer. Work through them systematically - most problems are solved by methodically checking each item.